Florence – city of artisans…

My friend once asked me how I looked for places to go when I traveled to a city. I said I would usually go to a bookstore and grab a travel guidebook for references. You might think I am too old-school but yes, that is my main resource. Lately, my friend introduced me to a very good website called Timeout and I find it great as well. But no matter what resources you use, make sure you give room for random things to happen because surprises are one of the best things about travels right?

So the route I am going to write today is based on a guide in the Lonely Planet book which we found at our rented home in Florence, about the home you can read it here

I love handicrafts. So, immediately when I saw the title “Florence – city of artisans” while scanning the book, I knew I had to make it. And it has been one of my favorite experiences in Italy so far. Now let’s go!!!

We started the day with a cup of latte here

The places presented below are within walking distance and the route can be completed within one day at a relaxing pace. However, my advice is that you should plan in advance based on the location of your hotel so that you won’t have to go back and forth the same route (like we did 😛 I did not see it as a problem as I really enjoyed walking around the town).

First stop: Madova Gloves

If you are looking for something made in Florence which can be used “forever,” this might be the address for you. They have been producing and selling gloves (only gloves) since 1919 – good quality and simply beautiful. My friend had a pair of gloves here; she is very happy about it. Unfortunately, she lost it on a train from Amsterdam back to Leipzig – sad story. You can read the history of the place on the website linked above. They are also the ones making gloves for high-end brands such as Burberry, Worth and Worth New York, etc.

Second stop: Giulio Giannini & Figlio

The artisan workshop Giulio Giannini & Figlio was founded in 1856, famous for its high-quality hand-tooled leather book bindings and marbled paper (decorated paper) printed with traditional folk designs of Florence. The current owner of the workshop – Maria (she is the 6th generation) told me that some decorative patterns we saw in the shops around Florence were originally from there. No products at the shop are the same as they are handmade and printed manually. We had a difficult time finding the workshop as the address was not as it was stated in the guidebook or on Google Maps anymore. The owner of a small shop around the area was so kind to show me the place which is now located in a small alley. I was greeted by a senior (who I knew later from Maria was her uncle and he is the 5th generation). He does all the book bindings at the shop while Maria is in charge of designing and making marbled paper.

One of Maria’s kids is studying in Rome and she was happy to share with us that she was very hopeful as her daughter was interested in keeping this arts and crafts alive. She (the daughter) plans to combine technology with traditional methods to create more innovative products. Talking to her reminded me of my grandmother’s work – we used to have a small workshop producing handcrafted sleeping mats and my grandmother was known for being the best artisan in town for this kind of handicraft – she is the third generation if I remember it right. I helped her when I was a kid too. However, my aunt who is the successor can barely continue it for many reasons; lack of good supplies for materials – grass fibers, as people changed to other industries to get a higher income and my cousin was not very interested in the work. I am interested but I basically have not got time for it yet and many techniques have been lost since my grandmother passed away. Maintaining a family tradition is never easy!

When I was listening to the story and imagining why they had to move their workshop to a smaller one in the alley, I felt kinda related. The good thing is that they are finding ways to maintain the family business and tradition and it is amazing to touch, hold and appreciate their works in our hands. For one swift moment, I wish I could do that to my grandmother’s products – she used to make beautiful hats too.

I think I am writing too much about this place but it is one of the places that made me think and left me so emotional. So if you come to Florence one day, you should go here! Let’s support local businesses!

Third stop: Calzature Francesco da Firenze

This shop is special. If you want to get inside, you have to ring, which I found pretty interesting. It showed how focused the artisans were on creating their works. You can see everything from the windows and it’s lovely. The shoes and sandals are basic, but basic is the best, isn’t it? 😉

The street where this workshop is located is full of good stores and it is quieter compared to other shopping streets in Florence – I wish I had discovered it earlier.

Fourth stop: CASINI FLORENCE – Palazzo Pitti

Well, among all the places we had visited so far, this workshop was the most commercial one but it also has a long tradition of making handcrafted leather products too. You can read its history on the website. The current brand-name is Jennifer Tattanelli – so I had to ask if the store was CASINI 😀

I met Alex who was very nice and helpful. It was his “first day” assisting clients at the store, normally he works upstairs as Customer Care Manager. While I was waiting for my friend who was looking for a pair of leather shoes in the store, I had a good chat with Alex and I loved the services at the store. They have nice designs but they are pricey too. My friend got a pair of sneakers which is pretty comfy to walk in it; however, if you walk toooo long, you’d better change to a more functional one.

Fifth stop: Consani & Giannini

Consani and Giannini is specialized in products made from leather. We came a bit late so it was close but we still could see a bit from the outside as the artisans were still working inside. What I love about Florence is that it is so artsy everywhere and people really “mind their own business,” 😀 they work with joy and passion and looking at them working is already a pleasure. There are a lot of materials and fabrics here as well – a great place to get inspired! If I come back, I will make sure to be more focused so that I will have enough time to come here early.

Last stop of the day: Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

I never thought it was a MUSEUM! We had a big surprise here. I was glad we made it the last stop of the day as after moving around the whole day, it was really relaxing getting inside and smelling the exotic fragrance here. Buuut you can be overwhelmed as they have hundreds of fragrances and most of them are just so nice and unique that you want to bring them ALL home.

If you would like to get a recommendation, here are the four products I love:

1. Discovery Kit Firenze 1221 – you will get all of the heritage scents in one set so why not? People (including the pickiest ones) love this kit.
2. Tabacco Toscano Soap – I do not need to tell much about this product as it has been their best seller ever since. I myself have never tried anything “tobacco” but I love this one too.
3. Sali di Lavanda – I got one for myself as it is very relaxing to smell – you can put on your pillow one or two drops for a good sleep. Can be a great gift for people who are under a lot of pressure or stress.
4. Aceto Aromatico – well, the story is pretty INTERESTING so I copy it here from their website (the lovely lady at the shop told me about it) – “This Aromatic Vinegar, traditionally known as Vinegar of the Seven Thieves, appeared in Toulouse during the terrible plague epidemic that struck the city between 1628 and 1631. Legend has it that it was used by seven thieves, each of whom knew a component and ignored the other six. This remedy allowed them to plunder the sick without being contaminated. It was passed on the hands and face or burned in homes to protect themselves from contagious diseases.” You can buy it as a gift for someone who works so hard and sometimes needs a “real wake up” or a mood booster 😉

Special stop of the trip: No Name

On our first day in Florence, we had a leisure evening walk to our dinner place. And because we were new in the city, everything excited us so a walk of one kilometer took us forever, literally forever – I thought if I were walking with my “german friend,” he would have arrived in Rome while I was still struggling around Florence. But yes, long story short, because we walked so slowly that we came across a very special workshop. I did not think it was a workshop myself as the first thing that caught my attention was a man playing piano inside and there was no sign telling me “this is a shop” – no name at all. My friend and I were curiously “spying” the products inside the shop – it’s all fur. We were like “do you wanna get inside?” “yeah but I do not want to disturb the man… (who is obviously occupied with music)” But “do you wanna see it?” “yeah but but but…” hahaha

My friend said environmentalists would hate this place and I kinda agreed with her. But on the other hand, if you think of the heritage side of the place – Florence itself, you might have a lighter perspective on this. Some workshops have been there for many many generations and people do it out of passion and it’s a beautiful thing, isn’t it? Especially places like these do not sell their products commercially; everything here is tailormade I guess. Finally, he saw us so he opened the door and welcomed us inside. I have never touched any products made from real fur myself so it was also an experience for me. The hat I touched was made of beaver fur. Beavers are so cute and I saw them in Leipzig sometimes so even though I was curious about the origin of the fur and how he got it, I did not ask further.

His works are amazing and he is a true artisan – the aura is irresistible! We looked around for a bit and left so that he could continue playing piano and enjoying his Friday night – the scene is like from a poem or a painting 😀

If you want to visit the workshop, it’s close to a shop called Trattoria.

Update: I think I found it on Google Maps – so the place is called Pellicceria Gionata Cozzi 😉

And if you love Florence like I do, you will find this book very very interesting!

See you next time, when I will write about my experience in Milan and Rome 😉